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Did you know that--just like the foods in your fridge and pantry--thread has a shelf life? While you may love the vintage threads you inherited from Grandma's collection, Bob Purcell explains why it might not be the best choice for your quilting projects.

A good quality thread today will last much longer than thread which was made 15 or 20 years ago.  Even the best quality cotton thread of a generation ago did not have processing techniques available to us today and it would probably be best to avoid using them.  However, a top quality cotton thread manufactured today will probalby be fine to use 40 or 50 years from now.  The difference is due to a higher quality of cotton and advancements in spinning, dyeing, and twisting technology. 

As for polyester thread, the color may fade over the years with exposure to sunlight but there is no evidence that the thread deteriorates so it will last a lot longer than we will.

This great tip was found in the School of Threadology Manual.  The book and accompanying DVD lay to rest many of the myths we have heard for years, as well as a great 'hands-on' tips to make your sewing smooth sailing.  For more great thread tips check out the complete set available through Superior Threads.

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Detail of Tribute to Tolkien by Sue McCarty

Last week Bob shared with us what to look for when on the hunt for quality metallic thread.   This week, he shares tips for how to fall in love with Metallics:

• Choose the best quality thread.  Select a spool with a large spool core diameter.  Avoid the skinny-core spools.

• Use either a Topstitch needle size 90/14 or a metallic needle, size 90/14.  A size 80/12 needle is too small.

• Loosen the upper tension setting to "one."

• Use a smooth, lint-free bobbin thread, such as The Bottom Line.

This great tip was found in the School of Threadology manual.  The book and accompanying DVD lay to rest many of the myths we have heard for years, as well as great 'hands-on' tips to make your sewing smooth sailing.  For more great thread tips check out the complete set available through Superior Threads.

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Detail of Tribute to Tolkien by Sue McCarty

Trying to turn real metal into a smooth-running sewing thread is not an easy task.  Many quilters are warry of using metallic thread due to the poor quality that has almost ruined the product's reputation.  But, there is quality metallic thread available, and at prices less expensive than some of those very poor imitators.  Bob Purcell suggests that quality metallic thread should these three essential components for smooth and successful stitching.

• Does the thread have a nylon core?  A nylon core is an indicator of strength and quality.  Polyester and rayon are weaker.  A nylon core, combined with 'paper-pasting', prevents tangling.

• Is the thread 'paper-pasted'?  The best metallics will have a coat of rice paper pasted over the nylon core.  This adheres the nylon core to the metal, resulting in a stronger thread.  Metallic threads without the rice paper pasting do not hold up as well during high-speed embroidery.  Paper-pasting makes the thread cohesive and flexible.

• Does the thread have a protective coating?  If the thread has a protective coating over the outer metallic layer, the thread will run better with less friction.  An outer coating also protects against fraying and shredding.

This great tip was found in the School of Threadology manual.  The book and accompanying DVD lay to rest many of the myths we have heard for years, as well as great 'hands-on' tips to make your sewing smooth sailing.  For more great thread tips check out the complete set available through Superior Threads.

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As most quilters know, the varieties of cotton thread and the range in its pricing can be overwhelming. With so many options, what should you consider when making your thread choices?

Quality is determined by two factors: the quality of the cotton fibers and the method of processing. Bob Purcell (of Superior Thread), our expert in all things thread, is here to clear away the lint on this fibrous issue. 

Quality: 

Cotton is classified by the length of the staple (fibers). There are three classifications of cotton.
1.  Regular staple with an average fiber length of 1.125"
2.  Long staple with an average fiber length of 1.25"
3.  Extra-long staple (ELS) with a fiber length of 1.375 or greater 

A long-staple cotton may cost 50% more than regular-staple thread.  Likewise, an ELS cotton thread may cost 50% more than a long-staple thread. With each upgrade, you will have a much stronger thread that produces a lot less lint. Stronger thread means less breakage, while less lint, means less wear and tear and cleaning for your machine.

Processing:

Mercerized Cotton - Some inexpensive regular-staple cotton is not mercerized, while almost all long-staple and ELS thread is mercerized. Mercerizing is a process of treating cotton thread that causes the fibers to swell, allowing the dye to better penetrate the fibers. In addition to increasing the luster, this strenghtens the thread.  Even if the thread is not labeled 'mercerized cotton', if it is a long-staple or ELS, it probably is mercerized. 

Glazing -  If the thread has a hard,shiny coating or wirelike stiffness, it is probably a glazed thread. Heating the thread and then coating it with waxes, starches, and other chemicals produces a thread with a glossy, hard finish.  Most professionals do not recommend glazed threads for machine work because the glaze rubs off and can gum up the sewing machine.

Gassing - Gassing refers to a process in which cotton thread is passed through a flame at high speed, burning off the excess fuzz to create a higher sheen. More common terms for this process are silk finish or polish cotton.

This great tip was found int the School of Threadology manual.  The book and accompanying DVD lay to rest many of the myths we have heard for years, as well as great 'hands-on' tips to make your sewing smooth sailing.  For more great thread tips check out the complete set available through Superior Threads.

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Superior Threads and Cindy Needham discuss the importance of the Fabulous Four. Her four top tips for Thread Delivery, Correct Tension, Needles, and Bobbins.

Cindy also has some great tips on the proper way to clean your machine.  Get your pipe cleaners ready.  Learn how to solve 90% of your thread problems by watching this video. Thanks Cindy!  

To learn more about Cindy, watch Episode 202: Antique Linens and Textile Revival where she shares her techniques and ideas to revitalize antique linens.

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There is a lot of good lessons in the Superior Threads newsletter.  Be sure to sign up for more info. Here is a very good article from the last newsletter.

EDUCATION: It's a Tug-of-war 
I don't mean to boast, but . . . I have done something that very few people have ever done.  I have read a sewing machine Owner's Manual from cover to cover.  While reading the chapter on tension I had an Ah hah! moment.  It was such an awakening, I still remember it today although it was six years ago.  I was reading page 51 about tension.  The manual stated that the top tension setting was factory preset to sew with a 50 or 60 wt. polyester thread. This particular machine was the top of the line machine at that time.  Although it offered everything including fancy stitches, embroidery capability, features for excellent piecing and quilting, I realized then that it was designed first and foremost as a sewing machine, not as a quilting or embroidery machine.  This explains why the top tension settings were factory preset to sew with a 50 or 60 wt. polyester thread.  That is sewing thread, not the usual quilting or embroidery thre ad.  Sewing machines are made around the world for the world.  The world sews. We quilt.

This realization led to greater curiosity and subsequent research into sewing machine tension.  One of the best lessons I heard on this topic was from Libby Lehman.  Think of the top and bottom thread as having a tug of war. 

If the threads are identical and you are sewing on a single layer of fabric and the tension settings are perfect so both sides have equal strength, the result will be a draw. The sewing should therefore produce perfectly even stitches with no top thread showing underneath and no bobbin thread showing on top. However, in the real world, the teams are rarely equal. One team will be stronger or bigger or faster or smoother than the other. We sometimes use decorative or sensitive threads on top. We often use different fibers for the top and bottom threads. We also add stabilizer or batting. Sometimes we might use a cotton bobbin thread and other times we use a polyester bobbin thread. All these factors make it necessary to adjust the tension for each project. By adjusting the top tension either up or down, we are able to add or take away strength on the top thread team to equalize the tug of war battle. Following is a list of things that affect stitch results: 
1. Batting. This adds drag on the top thread. Cotton batting tends to grab the thread more than poly batting, adding more friction on the thread. 
2. Fabric type. Dense fabric puts more stress on the thread. 
3. Top thread thickness and type. Metallic is less flexible than cotton or poly. Poly is usually stronger than cotton or rayon. 
4. Bobbin thread type. Cotton bobbin thread tends to grab more than a smooth filament polyester. Sometimes grabbing is preferred (when piecing) and sometimes it causes problems (with metallic thread). A smooth filament poly thread (not spun poly) in the bobbin will work better with metallic and other sensitive threads because its smooth finish acts almost like a lubricant, sliding nicely with the thread. 

Conclusion: We cannot rely on automatic tension settings.  There are too many variables.  As illustrated in the above diagram, if the top thread is showing underneath, either the top tension is too lose or the bobbin tension is too tight.  Either tighten the top or loosen the bobbin. If the bobbin thread is poking through the top, either the top is too tight or the bobbin is too loose.  Loosen the top or tighten the bobbin.  When making adjustments, begin with the top tension. 
Full page printable image of above diagram 

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Our friends at Superior Threads are going to give away three packs of their wonderful product, Texture Magic, to three lucky TQS Members.  By using Texture Magic, you can add texture to your fabrics and this can open up new doors in dimension and design in your quilts.  This overview gives you an idea of what Texture Magic can do in just four simple steps.  Once you have seen the video, you know you'll want to try it.

Three Lucky Winners will have a chance to win a package of Texture Magic. Just email to Magic@TheQuiltShow.com  (copy and paste into your address bar in the TO: box-- if it's not automatic) and put "Texture Magic" in the subject line.  One entry per person. The contest ends Monday night (December 27, 2010) midnight Pacific Time.  Buy it here from Bob at Superior Threads.

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Quilters love cotton thread, but what about polyester?

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We have our winners for the Superior Threads silk thread giveaway! They are Carol Muller, Susan Entwistle, and Laura Jaszkowski.  Susan and Laura have their own blogs; to see Susan's blog, click here and Laura has her blog here.

These three lucky winners will receive 5 spools of 220 yard silk thread in the colors of their choice courtesy of Superior Threads.  Thanks, Dr. Bob!

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Congratulations to TQS Member, machla! Her name was randomly drawn to win the $50 Gift Certificate from Superior Threads in last week's Weekend Fun contest.  In case you missed it, Bob the Thread Guy has a great video where he defines Staples, Egyptian, and Mercerized threads. Is Egyptian cotton thread really from Egypt?  Click on the video to find out.

For more information on Superior Threads, please visit their website: click here.

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