1

fShare

Tweet

As most quilters know, the varieties of cotton thread and the range in its pricing can be overwhelming. With so many options, what should you consider when making your thread choices?

Quality is determined by two factors: the quality of the cotton fibers and the method of processing. Bob Purcell (of Superior Thread), our expert in all things thread, is here to clear away the lint on this fibrous issue. 

Quality: 

Cotton is classified by the length of the staple (fibers). There are three classifications of cotton.
1.  Regular staple with an average fiber length of 1.125"
2.  Long staple with an average fiber length of 1.25"
3.  Extra-long staple (ELS) with a fiber length of 1.375 or greater 

A long-staple cotton may cost 50% more than regular-staple thread.  Likewise, an ELS cotton thread may cost 50% more than a long-staple thread. With each upgrade, you will have a much stronger thread that produces a lot less lint. Stronger thread means less breakage, while less lint, means less wear and tear and cleaning for your machine.

Processing:

Mercerized Cotton - Some inexpensive regular-staple cotton is not mercerized, while almost all long-staple and ELS thread is mercerized. Mercerizing is a process of treating cotton thread that causes the fibers to swell, allowing the dye to better penetrate the fibers. In addition to increasing the luster, this strenghtens the thread.  Even if the thread is not labeled 'mercerized cotton', if it is a long-staple or ELS, it probably is mercerized. 

Glazing -  If the thread has a hard,shiny coating or wirelike stiffness, it is probably a glazed thread. Heating the thread and then coating it with waxes, starches, and other chemicals produces a thread with a glossy, hard finish.  Most professionals do not recommend glazed threads for machine work because the glaze rubs off and can gum up the sewing machine.

Gassing - Gassing refers to a process in which cotton thread is passed through a flame at high speed, burning off the excess fuzz to create a higher sheen. More common terms for this process are silk finish or polish cotton.

This great tip was found int the School of Threadology manual.  The book and accompanying DVD lay to rest many of the myths we have heard for years, as well as great 'hands-on' tips to make your sewing smooth sailing.  For more great thread tips check out the complete set available through Superior Threads.