Fuse & Fix is a double sided fusible stabilizer used by the Bernina educators with the Cutwork tool when cutting out applique shapes by the millions (well, 10 layers of fabric at a time). This stabilizer is ironed to one side, the shapes cut, the backing peeled off, and then pressed by just finger pressure, to the backing for stitching. I have limited experience with it right now, but as soon as my machine is back from it's annual check-up, plans are in place!!!!

As far as the Sewers Aid goes, if it is just used on the needle, I can't visualize how it would do any harm to a machine, since there is no contact. I understand the controversy using it on thread.

suehenyon wrote:
I don't think that's what Sewer's Aid is for. It's intended to lubricate the thread and reduce friction, not to keep the needle clean.

You need to be careful with Sewer's Aid. Apparently you shouldn't use it with a Bernina. I don't know what kind of trouble it may cause, but I have hear this caution from several reputable sources.

I don't know anything about OESD's Fuse and Fix. What is it?

Hello everyone that has been so kind to offer advice. After repressing to make sure the glue was melted I started quilting on the project today using a microtex sharp 70/10 needle and sulky blendable thread. So far I have been using my walking foot for all the areas large enough to do smooth curving lines and I have had no problems at all. (Thank goodness !! ) I will be finishing that portion of the quilt tonight. Then its on to free motion thread painting and quilting. I am hoping I have the same luck with that as I had today. I did not do the area that will require invisible thread yet either. That portion will be around a face and into wrinkle lines. So far I am greatly relieved and pleased.

Would some of the Sewer's Aid help stop the gumming? I'm curious if OESD's Fuse and Fix is going to present the same problems.

Thanks for correcting me about the point of a topstitch needle, Terry. I didn't know that.

Washing your finished quilt won't close the holes if they're in fabric that's been fused. They're there forever, because the fusible holds them in place. Unless you know something I don't.

A topstitch needle has a rounded/sharp point as it is a combination of the ballpoint (rounded) and sharp (pointed) needles. I have given Bob's Superior Thread's titanium needles a test; but contrary to others' opinions, I find them to be dull. They create a larger hole than a regular topstitch needle and the sound the needle makes going through the fabric sounds like the needle is having a hard time penetrating the layers.

I keep going back to the metallic needle although sometimes I a microtex needle (for silk thread) will work too as it depends on what thread I'm using. These needles, at least for me, will produce a straighter line of stitching.

The sharper point of these needles will produce a smaller hole. I have found that washing the quilt after it is quilted helps reduce the holes as the cotton fibers tend to shrink slightly reducing the size of the hole. I say go to your local Joanne's type store when there is a sale for these items and buy several different types of needles and then experiement until you find the ones that work the best for you.

Margo wrote:
You're right, Margo. The other thing is that a sharp is a type of needle, not just a description. It's almost the same as microtex and jeans needles. I think the differences between the three have to do with the proportion of each needle as it slopes to form the tip. (Don't quote me.)

Ann, a topstitch needle also has a sharp point, just like the sharp, the microtex, and the jeans needles. But it has a deeper groove for the thread to lay in, and a larger eye, so it handles persnickety threads such as metallics and rayons better. Because they undergo less friction in this type of needle, they're less likely to fray.

Not all topstitch needles are titanium. The ones Dr. Bob is talking about are.

Ann, here is Dr. Bob's description of a topstitch needle's atributes:

http://www.superiorthreads.com/shop/category/home-machines/description/

The difference between a sharp needle and a universal needle is that a sharp one has a more pointed tip to pierce through the woven threads of the fabric. A universal needle is not quite as sharp and will sometimes pierce the threads, and sometimes not. A ball point needle is almost rounded and designed to slip between the woven threads and was developed to sew on knit fabrics and not split the threads. A line of stitching can sometimes look almost like a slightly zig-zag line.

For quilting, I always use a sharp (usually topstitch) needle in order to get as straight a stitching line as possible.

thank you for all your advice. I will be giving it a try later today and hopefully have success with it. This project as often times, is a great learning experience. I already learned many things I will do differently next time. When you said topstitch or sharp needle are you referring to a metallic needle as the sharp? or is this another type of needle? What exactly is the difference? I thought the topstitch had a groove for the thread to follow. Does the have a groove and a larger hole in the needle? And what is a sharp? Ann

Great advice, Anne! Thanks!

The size of the needle is determined by the thickness of the thread, not the stiffness of the fabric.

When you've used a fusible product, your needle holes won't close up, and they'll show, so you want the smallest needle you can get by with. If you're using invisible thread, then you can use a size 10 needle. For Sulky Blendables, you'll need a size 12 needle, whether it's a topstitch or a sharp.

Next time you use a fusible, try cutting away the centre of each piece of fusible before you fuse it to the applique fabric. That way you'll only be fusing the outer edges of the shape to the fabric, leaving the centre of the shape soft. I hope this makes sense.

Good luck!

If you have trouble with the needle gumming up even with a 90 topstitch, you could try a metallic needle as that kind of needle has a sharp piercing point. When I use sulkey thread, it shreads unless I use a size 90 topstitch.

Thank you. I will let you know how it works or if I still have trouble.

I usually use the 70/10 size with MonoPoly or YLI nylon, but you may need to use the larger needle for all those thick layers. Good luck!