You know, Lorchen, I was once considering writing a book on quilting called "Rules? What Rules?" Because, when you buy a quilt book, there it is, in black and white, "DO THIS........" and then you buy another book, and you are told something different. Case in point: I took three classes one year, at Houston, from 3 different award winning teachers, on free- motion quilting. One put the pedal to the metal, and off she went! Another went very slowly, and had very small work. One tied off all of her knots on the backside of the quilt ("Why would I want them any where else?") and another made sure she had both bobbin and top thread on the top, to be sure she knew exactly where they were. So, how does that saying go, "If it feels right, just do it!" (And, ignore the quilt police!)

Dawn
In (RAINING STILL!) Northwest Montana

After saying that I normally don't cut away the fabric behind appliqué pieces, I have to admit that I have just cut away all fabric on a new piece I'm working on. The reason: The background fabric is actually pieced and consists entirely of 2 inch squares. Where the appliqué pieces are, there would have been little ridges and bumps showing through from the seems in the background, so it simply had to go. It shows again that there is no simple right answer. All depends on your individual quilt.

Hi all. It's very interesting to see, how you all solve problems. I don't cut away fabric, but if I was to hand applique I might consider it. According to the color changing you call nap, I do it on purpose to make my colors more vibrant. And of course silks and velvets are really showing this.

I don't some have told me to but I will not I am happy with it the way it is

I have Karen Kay Buckley's dvd on applique. She prepares her pieces with spray starch. Not once does she mention aligning the applique with the background. I've taken classes with Pat Campbell and Becky Goldsmith and neither of did either. I've always thought that since all of my applique pieces are on the bias, they'd stretch anyway.

Sewdreamy wrote:

BJ, Pati in the TQS Shoppe sometimes has Stable Stuff by the yard. She used to just have in in the 8-1/2" x 11" pre-cut sheets to run through a printer, but I prefer to buy it off the bolt because there is much less waste for me than the smaller sheets. You may have to send her a note (through the "CONTACT US" link under "DAILY BLOG" on the purple bar) Here is the link for the pre-cut sheets: https://www.thequiltshowshoppe.com/?a=VP&id=281

Also, I really like Sharon Schamber's technique for using Elmer's washable glue sticks to prepare shapes for appliqué, either by hand or machine.
Here is a link to one of her YouTube videos:
http://www.sharonschambernetwork.com/Classes/AllPremiumClasses/Play/TabId/95/SeriesId/105/Free-Area-Needle-Turned-Applique-Blue-Bird.aspx

This is how I use Ricky's Stable Stuff!!

EDITED: Here is the link for the yardage: https://www.thequiltshowshoppe.com/?a=VP&id=376

SuperJudy wrote:
Judy I do a LOT of needle turn applique, and I find that turning the edges under is easiest on a bias edge, so I position my appliqué shapes on the bias whenever possible. For instance on a simple leaf shape, the center of the leaf would be on the true bias. It doesn't matter which way the grain of the background is running, because the leaf shape may need to go in 100 different directions depending on the pattern.

I have done very little applique, so should not be commenting on this post; however, I seem to remember an instructor saying that needle-turn applique is easier if the grain
of your applique matches the fabric you're attaching it to. Does that ring any bells for anyone?

Oh, I hadn't thought of using Ricky's Stable Stuff to prevent show through...I think, Margo, that you've just solved one of my applique quandries. And as to the "nap"...it's so much fun to play with, especially using silks and velvets. Hmmm....sounds like so much fun I think I'll put some silk and velvet flowers on a black vest. Cheers, BJ

Thank you Margo!!! That is exactly why I have had a hard time with the theory (learned a long time ago) that you cut away anything from "behind." I think it can compromise the strength of the piece somewhere down through time. And, I agree with placing another layer in there if shadowing is going on. I have even done that with pieced work.

Here's another thought on the "aligning." Just as Margo tents to "think big," I tend to think small. I'm thinking "Why would I worry about grain line on my small pieces, say 1" to 2"? Then I got ot thinking about, say, a Rhapsody quilt, or Hawaiian quilt, with VERY large applique pieces. As Sewdreamy said, it would then be "natural" for me to cut everything on the same directional grain. And, she brought up a good point about color reading differently depending on which way the grain was cut. Case in point: I have a "Bird of Paradise" (Judy Niemeyer) all cut out and half sewn. The background is a black batik. When turning the pieces for proper placement in the quilt, the color lightens or darkens, depending on the direction of the "nap." Drives me crazy! I'm just hoping the quilting will even out the "lights" and "darks."

Robin, I forgot to mention that Suzanne Marshell is one of my favorites. How fortunate that you were able to take a class from her! My favorite quilt of hers is her Pennsylvania Dutch "Anniversary 1991."

Dawn
In beautiful Northwest Montana

As for cutting away to reduce the bulk, if I feel it's necessary to cut away something, I'll try to do it in one of the middle layers of the appliqué instead of cutting away the background fabric. If something were to come unstitched, it would be easier to replace a sewn on piece than repair a hole in the background!

Also, if I see that there is shadowing (where a dark piece of fabric shows through a lighter piece on top of it), I will usually opt to insert a lining fabric rather than cut away the darker bottom piece. Yes, it adds even more bulk, but using something like Ricky Tims' Stable Stuff for the lining is a great compromise! It reduces the shadowing and doesn't add a lot of bulk.

Betty Jo, I'm glad you mentioned 'nap', because appliqué is great for using a variety of fabrics, like velvets, silks, linens, etc. , and then the grain line suddenly becomes important. But you may design not to actually align with the background fabric. I'm thinking flower petals or leaves, for example. If you would cut those from, let's say, silk it could be important to have the grain line be the same for all petals, no matter where on the background fabric they go.

So many options..... so much fun!!

Lorchen has it right...I only cut away the fabric when it gets a lot of layers or if it's a large applique piece that would look better without the fabric behind it. Sometimes even if there are several layers, I don't cut away the fabric behind because the pieces are too complex around the edges.

As far as aligning the grains...I guess i just do that most of the time because I was a garment sewer for many years before I got into quilting and it just seems natural. I think small applique can make almost no difference in the way a quilt hangs. Large applique could, though. But grainline can make a difference in how the color reads in some fabrics even if it's so subtle you might not call it a "nap".

Cheers,

BJ

Oh, Lorchen, you are so-o-o funny! Robin, I can maybe see aligning batiks, as they have a tight weave, but regular quilting cottons - that just doesn't seem neccessary! I doubt I will ever align my applique to my background (or ever hand quilt one, for that matter!) as that perfect piece will probably be on the diagonal, and just one more thing to worry about. I probably will not cut away the back, as the last person to receive it can make that desicion before quilting it. Not being very experienced at applique, I was just wondering if there was a RULE. You know, like will the quilt police get me if I don't. Thank you all for your comments! You are a great group of ladies!

Dawn
In beautiful Northwest Montana