Jo, I'll take all your pointers and especially appreciate the advice to watch Carol Doak's video. I'm away from my quilt library at the moment, know I have one of her books and have tried a sample or two from it. If it is not the book you recommend, I'll try to locate it and watch the video. When it came to the BOM, I just followed Sue's instructions and found that it worked for me. Meanwhile, I'm learning that my technique can be improved at every stage. Again, thanks for
the extra help.

I always use newsprint which I buy at a office supply store. I read about it somewhere ages ago so I thought I would try it. Unfortunately it comes in pads of 9" by 12" so you have to cut it down with a paper cutter, but it is worth it! Load only one sheet at a time into the printer when you do it otherwise every printer I have ever had grabs more than one piece. I made Lisa's Quilt (see the picture in the Gallery) this way. The wonderful thing about newsprint is that it is so easy to remove. Unlike papers sold for paper piecing, it almost falls off in your hands when you are ready to take the paper out. It never, ever pulls on the stitches. If I make a mistake I just tape it with removable tape and use it again. It is also very, very cheap. I do all my paper piecing this way because it is so very easy and inexpensive. Also, watch Carol Doak's video that comes with her book "50 Fabulous Paper Pieced Stars". It was an eye-opener! Once I started basting the meeting places like she does, I never get anything out of place. I took the book out of the library and it still had the DVD in it. I liked it so much I bought it.

Thanks, Nancy. Copying the pattern parts will have to do. May just copy onto graph paper. The tissue will not lay flat enough for tracing, print is rather faint. Another lesson in internet shopping from an unfamiliar designer. And I thought this would be quick and fun!

I agree about the bold print - I find that annoying!

I generally use that newsprint type paper that you buy for paper piecing and I always copy the originals onto it. That way, I still have the original to use again and the purchased paper has just the right thickness to hold up but tear away easily.

Nancy in NY

Has anyone had experience paper piecing from a tissue paper pattern?
I loved the result when piecing the feathered star in the 2009 BOM and have picked up a couple of small quilt patterns. However, the fragile paper is daunting and the only solution I can think of is to copy onto regular printer paper. Hoping for a better idea!

I'm going to a Carol Doak class in NJ in November at a shop called Quilting Possibilities. I can't wait!!
eileenkny

BethMI wrote:
Aim for about 16 to 20 stitches per inch. Try it at the lower number and work up. You don't want the paper falling off before you are ready but you want it to pull off easily.

JoJo

Carol Doaks is coming to our guild in 2 weeks for a workshop! Can't wait!

Maggie in E. Central Illinois

A recent TQS episode suggested a stitch length of 1.0 or 1.5. (My machine doesn't use stitches per inch.)

BethMI

Good tips Ladyrags.

No idea about the 400 series.

Why on Earth are you shouting at us??

THIS TOPIC IS JUST IN TIME...

I am doing a paper pieced blotto block ( pp is something I have not done in years) I recommend getting the CAROL DOAK paper piecing DVD from C&T publishing as well as her books. I find DVDs are easier to understand when I want to try a new technique. I can play them over and over until it is drilled in my head. Seeing something done in front of you being done is easier to understand. I also got great ideas on how to set up my sewing area more efficiently from the DVDs I have watched. That is one reason I like to get the latest TQS dvds...

Carol recommends:

using 90/14 needle

decreasing stitch size to 18-20 per inch

using thread that blends with most of the fabric

Trimming the fabric to patches large enough to cover the area BIGGER IS BETTER.... Depending on block size she cuts her fabrics (WOF) large enough to cover the entire block.. ( or to about six inches) She takes those fabric to her work area and then sub cuts the patches she needs closer to size.

Trimming the seam allowance to 1/4 inch after each step before you go on to the next step... Trim any dog areas as you go.

Stitch in the direction of your points.. they come out sharper

Take care to pay attention to grain lines... GRAINS OF FABRIC GOING IN THE SAME DIRECTION MAKE A MORE STABLE BLOCK... BIAS SEAMS STRETCH MORE despite the paper.

Trim your threads as you go... after you have cross sewed them...

Finger press the seams OR BETTER YET PRESS AS YOU GO.

Points... if not sharp enough take a deeper seam... that usually works...



MAKING MULTIPLES OF THE SAME BLOCK.... Make a sample block... then assembly line sew other blocks adding the same fabric patch to the same spot before going on....



Has anyone heard when series 400 will be released???

I really didn't like paper piecing either, until I forced myself to overcome my aversion to it by making the TQS 2009 BOM Feathered Star. Now, I enjoy it as much as any other technique.

With 20 stitches/inch, there's no need to sew into the seam lines.

After trying the first block, I honestly thought I'd never try it again. But I hate to let something get the best of me, so I will try it again! I'll go check out Carol Doak's website. Thanks Carole.

Whether or not to stop at the line or stitch past seems to depend on who's giving the instructions. I've had great luck with the methods from Carol Doak's DVD on paper piecing and she has you stitch past the line about 1/4 inch. Then you fold the pattern back on the line (up against a postcard or something similar) and use an add-a-quarter ruler to trim the seam. You just gently pull the fabric flat loosening the part where you've stitched past the line. Other instructors, though, have you stop ON the line. I think you should try both and see what works best for you. I never liked paper piecing until I watched Carol Doak's DVD and started doing it with her system. Now I thoroughly enjoy it. (Edited for spelling error!)