All is well. It is Birthday Party time, but I've got it easier this year, I've convinced Izzy that it would be fun to go bowling with a couple of friends (now she is at 'big school') instead of having to entertain 8-10 with a party at home, with the neverending pass-the-parcel ( I stop counting the layers after about 20+ ) and having to build a pinata for attempted destruction.

Need to make the cake this evening, and try a bit of tidying up too ah well!

PosyP wrote:
Amen to that , Rosemary! All is well here. How about with your family?

Margo wrote:
Same from me too, and a big Hiya! to DebbieWolf too. Long time no see... Hope all is well with you both.

PS Debbie - I found an easier way of running exchanges Let them do it themselves, like this [url]forum/friendship-triangle-exchange/6216-mug-rug-exchange-do-it-yourself-style[/url]

I believe some of the residue left in batiks is wax. That may make a difference too. I guess the answer is test your fabric with your technique.

There may be a difference between the commercial sizing/starch and the watered down starch that we use!

Good plan, Dawn! And....nice to see you back on the forum! You've been missed!

Call me conFUSED, but here is what I just read in my Laura Wasilowski email today:

"When using batik fabrics, wash the fabric before applying fusible web. Many fabrics, like batiks, are sold with a sizing or starch on them. This sizing can interfere with the bonding process when using fusible web. Washing the batik fabrics assures you of a better bond when fusing."

Since I do a lot of fused projects, this 'starch - no starch' issue is become puzzling to me. Obviously Laura's method works well for her as does Janet's and Margo's work well for them. They all have had great success over the years. If an appliqué is stitched down with embroidery or appliqué stitches, then I guess it really isn't an issue. But, since my small fused art projects have some appliqué pieces that have no stitches on them to secure them, I choose the no starch method for them. The fusing (adhesive) is all that will hold it in place.

That being said, I WILL starch my larger fused appliqué projects that get buttonhole/appliqué stitched. The top stitching is the decision maker for me.

Dawn
In beautiful Northwest Montana

I tried what Janet and Marilyn suggested and now my stress is over...at least until something else stumps me! The muslin on he ironing surface works great and letting the starch dry a bit has made all the difference in the world. I sewed and pressed all day yesterday and there were no starch flakes at all. Margo, I'll remember the beach towel next time I have to starch a large piece.

I also want to try using the freezer paper as an ironing surface as Ritzy suggested.

Gotta love our TQS community!!

My favorite way to iron larger lengths of wrinkled fabric (both starched and non-starched):
I make sure it is squared up first by tearing a strip off each end. Then I open it up and hang it lengthwise on a clothesline outside on my screened deck. I hang it lengthwise with the center fold over the clothesline. I make sure the ends and the selvages line up, and smooth it out a little. Hope this makes sense.
If it is a really long piece -like for quilt backing, etc.- I will fold it back on itself, and hang it doubled. Hope this makes sense.

If I want to put it in my stash, I just take it down when dry and fold it. It is all squared up. No ironing needed.

If it is a large piece that I want to use starched for a current project, I starch it and hang it on the clothesline overnight and iron it the next morning. The moist night air leaves a touch of moisture in the fabric overnight. It is just barely dampened the next morning- not sopping wet in some spots and dry in others.
It is very quick and easy to iron the next morning.

I only do this for larger lengths of fabric, which are hard for me to deal with otherwise.

No! I do make an effort to have the fabrics as flat and smooth as possible when they air dry, then just a shot of steam makes the fabric nice and crisp with no wrinkles anywhere!
That's why I use beach towels. They are large enough to lay out a 1.5 yard piece of fabric nice and flat.

Margo, then you have to spritz with water? I've found that when I air dry big pieces I have wrinkles that won't come out dry. Hmmm, maybe I should try again?

I spread old beach towels on the floor to absorb the over-spray, and spray pieces of fabric with 50/50 Sta-Flo/water until saturated, and just let them air dry on the floor.
I usually starch what I need tomorrow and let it dry overnight, and never have flaking because the fibers absorb the starch.
If the pieces are large, I will soak them in the starch mixture and wring out the excess then spread the yardage on the towels to air dry.
I seldom try to iron the fabric dry. Just takes entirely too much time!

Recently, I put freezer paper on my pressing board, pressed it on to the board and then did my spraying. When I was done with my starching I just removed it and threw it away. Was perfect, but it suited my needs.

I have tried all kinds of press cloths. My favorite is a homemade press cloth of white silk organza. Silk organza takes the high heat required to iron cotton and linen. Also, it is transparent, which lets you see what you are pressing underneath the press cloth.

One very helpful tool I have found is the Prym Dritz Iron Apron. It lets me iron wet, heavily starched fabric without sticking. I have used mine for about a year, and I don't have to clean my iron anymore. I got mine at JoAnn's with a coupon. It retails about $9 or $10.

I starch heavily, using the concentrated liquid starch diluted 50/50. I don't have a problem with starch flaking on the fabric as long as I let it soak in before ironing - even if the fabric is still wet.

Judy