Got my machine back. It required some readjustment of the needle and a new spring in the bsr. Seems to be working well now. Thanks for everyone's help

I was told that needles coated with Titanium help with that issue. One of my dealers told me that is the main reason to use one of those needles. I use the Superior brand, but you can also find them at Joann.

I had a similar problem when trying to buttonhole stitch around my applique that had a bonding material on the backside. The ONLY thing that worked for me was to keep the needle clean with alcohol or "Goo Gone." That was a pain in neck, but I didn't have any more missed stitches. Dawn

I sometimes encounter skipped stitches when I am quilting with some types of cotton batting. Try a larger needle (Topstitching 90 or 100 for instance) and increase the foot pressure for the BSR (so it rides closer to the quilt). Also try moving your needle one or two clicks off center so it enters into the quilt closer to the edge of the foot's ring (when using regular plate of course.) All three may help with flagging...when the needle pulls the quilt sandwich back up with it. (I also have the new spring which really helped.) I don't think the 505 is the problem. I use it all the time with wool, bamboo and other types of batting with no problem and with cotton with the above tweaks.

Thanks for the info. I hope mine is that easy to fix

Yes, my repair guy at the dealer was able to fix it and it works now, also on the quilts sprayed with the 505 as well. There were some tension issues and he calibrated the BSR. He actually did it pretty quick, and I had it back later that day. You should be in good shape if it's going back to Bernina. I'm lucky to have a great repair guy at my dealer.

I took my machine in and of course it would not skip for the repair man. I was attending a class at my dealers yest and it started skipping again with the bsr. It also skips if I try to sew with any type of batting. The machine is being shipped back to bernina. Was told it would take 2-3 weeks. I'll post again when I get it back.

I'd certainly be curious to hear your outcome, as I have had similar problems with my 820 BSR. It was skipping stitches horribly on a quilt spray basted with 505, and even samples with no spray basting, but not as bad. I took the BSR into my dealer with all of my different samples, and they saw that it wasn't something I was doing wrong. It just wasn't working. The repair guy said that my machine and BSR needed to be calibrated, and we are going to try a new spring in the BSR. I will try the foot pressure increase and see if that makes a difference. I was told that titanium needles help with adhesives. I thought they were just for strength, but another dealer told me the glue doesn't stick to them, and that's the real advantage. Who knew?

-sheila

I called my bernina dealer yest and was told to bring in the machine. It may need an adjustment in the needle. If they tell me the machine is fine, I'll try some of your suggestions. Thanks for everyones help. I'll keep you posted.

On my longarm, the recommended distance between the hopping foot (in the needle down position) and the quilt top is the thickness of a single business card.

Created by CJ
kmouse wrote:

I just finished reading a nice article on this topic by Diane Gaudynski in the latest issue (May) of American Quilter Magazine. Among the general tips in this thread, she suggested slightly increasing presser foot pressure when thinner "felt like" cotton battings. This is different than what I have been told, since my BSR instructions were to decrease the pressure on the presser foot. DG suggests when there is too much space between foot and the quilt, skipped stitches can result. I personally have more fun and success with the wool battings but that is just because wool batt is more crushable and easier to handle.

I guess the rule of thumb is to experiment. I would highly recommend American Quilter magazine, which a person receives when they join the American Quilters Society. Great magazine and great organization.

Here is what Bob the tread guy says. It also makes a difference if your thread is vertical or horizontal.

I have skipped the last hook before the needle and it has made a difference along with the single stitch plate. Unfortunately Its all trial and error and can get to the point of hair pulling with all the different possibilities to test.. leet us know how it turns out.

2. Upper tension setting. Everywhere the thread touches along the thread path adds tension to the thread. Some longarm machines have more than 20 contact points, each one adding tension. Some home machines also have more thread guides than are necessary. Adjust the tension by reducing the number of places the thread makes contact with any part of the machine. It is OK to bypass some of the thread guides. The guide that usually causes the problem is the last one near the needle. Try skipping that one. Next, reduce the tension setting. Even if the person who sold you the machine told you to never touch it, don't rely on the automatic tension control. All machines have a manual tension override function for a reason. The more you learn to use it, the more versatile your machine will become. An auto tension control may help some but rarely does enough. On a scale of zero to ten, machines are factory preset to about a five. Reduce the tension not by small fractions but by 3 or 4 whole numbers. It is better to go way down and then ease back up than to go down one tiny step at a time. You will know when the tension is too loose when the top thread loops on the bottom.

These adjustments are easy and safe. The result will be more versatility in your machine. No more one-channel sewing. When I go to Baskin-Robbins, I don't want a double scoop of vanilla ice cream. I want to try those delicious fancy flavors. Give your quilting and embroidery a break from vanilla.

thanks for all the suggestions. I'll try the straight stitch plate. I did have success with isacord thread and a 70/10 universal needle, but couldn't get sulky or gutterman to work. Can we only use cone threads with these machines? I've not had any problem with regular spools until I tried to quilt.

The straight stitch throat plate did it for me. The wide one that comes with the machine tends to suck fabric into the hole. I like the idea about the Superior Thread site-I use it all the time. Join up for their newsletter.