PattyinFlorida wrote:
Check the Feathered Star tutorial on my Webshots link for photos and directions! Go to the second page and view the last 4 pictures.

http://good-times.webshots.com/album/569453221xrxRqK?vhost=good-times

Margo - You are so helpful. I wonder if you could describe how you block your block? ('')

I have always done a few back stitches when I paper peice - just one or two though. It eases my mind knowing they are there and it does prevent any pulled stitches when you remove the paper. That said though don't back stitch too much because it make for a real pain if you have to unstitch something

Sewed a couple of sections this morning. I did an extra step to check placement before I sew the seam...I put a pin right on the stitching line, then flip it over and check it with the light. Then I move the pin and stitch. I think it saved me some aggravation! No reverse sewing this morning!
Sherry in S MS

I have just read all of the other messages, and understand these tiny stitches shouldn't unravel. Thanks for your reply

Dont worry Donna. You are using a small stitch lenght, and in addition the seams will be sewn over when the blocks goes together. So just sew along!! Have fun

I have done a lot of paper piecing but have always stitched across intersecting lines. I was surprised to read Sue's directions where she suggests stopping and starting on the lines. I understand the reason why - for easier paper removal - and I would like to give it a try, but am concerned about the stitching coming undone. Do you all think a couple of backstitches would interfere with the precise stitching I am reading so much about? Or how about the built in start and stop stitches (stitches in place) on my Designer SE?

I am new to the TQS BOM group as I did not participate on last year's BOM, but this quilt just "spoke" to me. I ordered the fabric from TQS and it is washed and ready with the Feathered Star pieces all cut and ready for stitching, but now I am hesitating...

any suggestions?

-Donna

Another tip for those who don't want to remove the paper until the units are sewn together. Remove the paper from each seam before the next seam is sewn so there won't be any paper hidden in the crossed over seam.

Also if you start and stop before and after the seam line pull the paper loose from this area before going on to the next seam. You usually have to pull it loose anyway to trim the seam.

Annis

I have found that if I start sewing before the seam, and continue after the seam, I can get a crisper fold over. And don't have to worry about the seam pulling apart.

Maggie in E. Central Illinois

Thanks so much for the tips Anne! It's nice to hear stuff that works!

Hi All,
I am excited about this BOM. It is beautiful and with Sue's directions, it looks easily managable.

I just finished reading through the first month's directions and reading through Margo's tutorial. (Thanks Margo). I wanted to post a couple of tips that I find helpful. No matter how hard I try, I am not that accurate when it comes to piecing. Paper piecing is my friend. It helps me to be accurate in a way that would simply not otherwise be possible. If you have not tried it in the past, I strongly encourage you to give it a try.

I always use a press cloth. Both under my project and over. I find that the ink from the paper transfers. I have a couple of old dish cloths and they work well. They do get stained and I just toss them in the laundry every now and again.

I press after every seam.

I don't remove my paper until the entire block is sewn together. Sue talked about this option, but opted to remove the paper before sewing the final patches. One reason I leave the papers on until after the final sewing is because I use the seam lines to match up the patches. It helps me with my accuracy.

I'm in no hurry to remove the paper. Sometimes I save this task for when I'm in the mood for a "mindless" work. I usually take the seam allowance off first. Then, the middle sections will pop out. Sometimes there are a few bits of paper left in tough spots. Tweezers help to remove these.

Hope this helps.

Enjoy,

Anne in Central Illinois

I did not starch before sewing the feathered star, but when I blocked it I did use starch, and then starched everything after that. Sue does NOT recommend using starch, but I find that I get better results with the crisper fabric. Try it both ways and see which one works best for you.

The tutorial I posted for the alternative January block shows how I starch my fabrics, and I will also show it with the February directions.

Margo, did you starch your fabrics for the feathered star? I noticed you did for the alternative block. I just read both tutorials and Sue's complete packet and I am ready to start....except I have to work this weekend Maybe, I will have a bit of time in between. Thanks
Sandi in FL

As always, great job on the tutorial, Margo.