It can be done. You can even do it with the back and front the same size on a longarm. Yup, been there done that. I can't say I would recommend it, but it is possible.

Adding the borders will make it easier. Don't quilt right up to the edge of the outer blocks though. I aligned my layers and pined the corners of the blocks to align them perfectly then secured between those pins to tack the whole quilt before quilting. I would secure the layers more than usual as you don't have the room for shifting, but for the right quilt it is worth the effort.

I look forward to seeing this quilt.

Ferret

Libbi wrote:
AMEN, Libbi! What you did is amazing! I know how hard it is to get everything lined up! Good job!!!

The back of my At Jim's Request Christmas quilt is composed of 1056 3* blocks--something I will never do again . It would have required over 7 1/2 meters of fabric for the back and at 26 Swiss francs a meter (exchange rate is currently $1 is .98 SF!) this would have been one of the most expensive quilts I ever made :shock: . So I decided to raid my Christmas stash.
It took us 6 times to line up the blocks with the front (quilt posted in Gallery). The first time is when I too discovered that the back was too small. I had to trim the top as well as enlarge the backing due to fabric shortage. We determined in the end that because of the different techniques and quilt block sizes in the quilt top and quilt back, perfection was unachieveable. We did our best to line up the horizontal ditches and pin or baste the sandwich together more precisely than ever before. However as you quilt, the fabric will do what it will. In the end, no one notices. I don't intend to have it judged, do I don't know what the quilt police would say.
My advice to you is to do your best to minimize the visual distortion but let go of the desire for absolute perfection.

Thanks Kathy and Margo. I read the information you posted about Synthrapol and Retayne. I found a good explanation of both products and how to use them at the site Margo posted:

http://www.prochemicalanddye.com/store/home.php?cat=323

Thank you for your responses.

When I blocked the large Lemoyne Star variation (in my profile), I put a clean sheet on the floor and another on top.
I also turned on an oscillating fan to speed the process. I have two cats that believe if it's on the floor, they must investigate at the very least. and they leave alot of fur everywhere :shock:

Debbie, Kathy is exactly right. Here are some links if you want to read what the chemical companies have to say:

http://www.prochemicalanddye.com/store/home.php?cat=323

http://www.dharmatrading.com/html/eng/2127-AA.shtml?lnav=chemicals.html

http://www.dharmatrading.com/html/eng/1981-AA.shtml?lnav=chemicals.html

Hi Debbie, Synthrapol is used for hand-dyed or batik fabrics to keep the dye that comes out of the fabric from depositing on other fabrics or back on the fabric you are washing. Retayne is used for commercially dyed fabrics to keep the dye from coming off the fabric in the first place. When I wash some of my batiks in Synthrapol, a ton of dye often goes into the wash water! I didn't use to prewash fabrics, but since I love batiks and hand-dyes, I now do, to avoid a surprise after the quilt is finished.

Dharma trading, where I buy my dyes, has lots of useful info on their website about both products. I'm sure that the other popular dye websites have similar information.

Kathy

[quote/]
Margo, I read your advice about using Synthrapol. I have a bottle of Retayne that I haven't used yet and I am confused about when to use the Retayne or the Synthrapol. On the website you posted, they almost sound like they do the same thing. I'm wondering if you or anyone else has any advice on the two products.



Debbie Kendall
[/quote]

Hi, I've never posted before, but I enjoy reading the forum. Thank you to the many knowledgeable members always willing to share.

Margo, I read your advice about using Synthrapol. I have a bottle of Retayne that I haven't used yet and I am confused about when to use the Retayne or the Synthrapol. On the website you posted, they almost sound like they do the same thing. I'm wondering if you or anyone else has any advice on the two products.

Thanks so much,

Debbie Kendall
Spring, Texas

You are absolutely right, Sandi! And I should have said that in my explanation. The quilts that I block are the ones that will be hanging in a show (or in this case be on display in assorted TQS booths with Alex Anderson for the next year!) and they need to be square and flat so that they look as crisp as I can get them after being washed. The chemicals have got to be washed out and the starch I use during construction makes them so stiff I can hardly fold them into a shipping box!

Most of my quilts are meant to be used and loved to death, and they go from the washer right into the dryer for that comfy "puckery" look. This is not the same look as stitched in puckers! That's a different animal! The comfy "puckery" look does not do well in shows, so show quilts must be handled differently.

I have never tried to block a quilt on the wall, but I'm sure that it would work if you use enough pins. The weight of a full size wet quilt would be difficult to work with, so you might want to get someone to help you hold it as you pin it. Be sure to use something to get it square. Laser lights work well, if you have access to one, or for smaller quilts, a large square-up acrylic ruler is good. Or you could mark straight lines and square corners with string before you begin pinning. That's one reason I chose the floor covering that I did for my sewing room!

Hope that answers your question and thanks for reminding me that I needed to explain it further!

Margo...questions? You don't dry your quilts in the dryer? I thought the dryer helped get that puckery look. Also, I have three cats, floor is out of the question, but, could the quilt be hung on the design wall, pinned in place to block it? Sandi in FL

cpblay wrote:
Absolutely, cpblay! That's why one of my soapboxes is that every quilt deserves a label!! Quilts can't talk so we need to give them a voice! And some of the oddest quilts probably have some of the best stories!

sugarmuffin57 wrote:
She would too! She is my sister and she talks about you all the time.

Margo, I saw a quilt today at the second-hand store and it wasn't quilted very well, but that didn't stop whoever made it. It was made out of stiff material and quilted with large uneven stitches and the seams didn't match, but I almost bought it. It made me sad to see it there unloved. It was a big quilt that someone put a lot of love into, maybe they can't see too well anymore, maybe they were new...I stood there feeling of it and thinking I ought to take it home, but I didn't.
Don't all "unknown quilter" quilts make you wonder what the story is? Even the not so great ones.

Hmmmmm.....

My first rinse with cold water is to remove any marking pens and starch and Vanish and glue, and I've never really checked about dyes discharging, because I've been testing for that all along by pre-washing and checking as I starch, which shows any discharge.

I do know that some fabrics will discharge dye into the water with no harm done, and others will discharge dye that will migrate to other fabrics. That is what Synthrapol will prevent. It chemically causes all fibers to repel any dyes in solution. http://www.dharmatrading.com/html/eng/2127-AA.shtml?lnav=chemicals.html

I like using Orvus Paste because I feel like it rinses out of the fibers, but didn't realize that it might be causing some discharge. I'll have to pay more attention! http://www.farmandfleet.com/products/062513-orvus_paste_soap.html
Not only is it good for the quilts, but it's really economical! (Read: cheap!) I get mine at the local farmer's co-op!

So....I guess I have no answers for you....