suehenyon wrote:
Oh, I'm sorry... I wasn't laughing at all. In fact, I was in total admiration of you and what you have accomplished thus far...truly.

Yes, you do need to zoom way in but it is so worth it. Make sure you do not have your true picture engaged (the one that gives you a picture of what the stitches would look like if it were embroidered). Look at it in stitch mode. You will have a more accurate measurement.

I can stitch up to 22 inches wide by 17 inches tall, which is great when I'm doing a tablecloth for a customer.

Oh, I forgot that you are doing this in several hoopings. My bad! That does add to the complexity. I'm really impressed with how much you have accomplished so far.

JoJo, it's not polite to laugh at the less fortunate. Out of curiosity, how big a work area do you have on your commercial machines, without re-hooping?

Yes, I have the measure, used best for measuring stitch width by zooming waaaaaaaaaaayyyy in.

Thanks again.

I can't figure out what the stitch width is in this one design...how weird is that? When I go to object properties, everything is greyed out, probably because of the auto applique.

If you hit the letter "m" in your software, do you get a cross hair on the screen? If you do, you can left click and drag your mouse from side to side and measure your width.

I am able to change the stitch density (I think this is stitch spacing?) and I'm thinking that, because it is called stitch spacing, the number needs to increase to decrease the density. Now, if it is set at .40 mm by default, then how much of a change is significant? I upped it to .42 & we'll see. That doesn't sound like much.
I added the double zigzag underlay, too.

Yes, that's it. Strange that they called it that but at least you found it. .40 is the default and works well on most things. Changing it to .42 will decrease the density by a little bit. If I started off with 472 stitches it might reduce it to around 418 if you are using a fill stitch.

I changed the fabric setting, but cannot visibly see any difference in settings in the software. I'm just about to do another stitch-out to see the affects.

They added that in my software and I completely ignore it but only because I've been doing this for many years and know what I need. I'm too lazy to test out their standard settings to see what or if I need to tweak anything.

This kind of makes sense. I tend to think about what needs to go under what, for instance, in the wreaths for the BOM, I did the outline wreath & worked top to bottom in 3 sections, because I know I need three hoopings, based on the size of the block and my hoop. What might be helpful, is a diagram of one of the "O's" from the BOM, with arrows or numbers indicating the order in which you would work.

Oh, I forgot that you are doing this in several hoopings. My bad! That does add to the complexity. I'm really impressed with how much you have accomplished so far.

I am still working for the perfect offset, as mentioned in previous posts. It seems to me that I also read somewhere that there is an issue with V6 offset that is supposed to be corrected in an update.

Sorry can't help you there. I'm still waiting for an update too on mine. It's never ending in that arena.[/i]

Hi Jo Jo
I'll take all the advice I can get!

I can't figure out what the stitch width is in this one design...how weird is that? When I go to object properties, everything is greyed out, probably because of the auto applique.

I am able to change the stitch density (I think this is stitch spacing?)
and I'm thinking that, because it is called stitch spacing, the number needs to increase to decrease the density. Now, if it is set at .40 mm by default, then how much of a change is significant? I upped it to .42 & we'll see. That doesn't sound like much.
I added the double zigzag underlay, too.

JoJo said "The better you get at digitizing, the more you will want to decide your own density instead of what the programers thought you should use for a particular fabric."

I changed the fabric setting, but cannot visibly see any difference in settings in the software. I'm just about to do another stitch-out to see the affects.

P.S. When you are planning out your designs, think inside to outside. That will also help with distortions. For example, start from the center of the design and end with whatever is on the outside. If this makes no sense, let me know and I'll post a picture of what I mean.[/quote]
[/i]
This kind of makes sense. I tend to think about what needs to go under what, for instance, in the wreaths for the BOM, I did the outline wreath & worked top to bottom in 3 sections, because I know I need three hoopings, based on the size of the block and my hoop. What might be helpful, is a diagram of one of the "O's" from the BOM, with arrows or numbers indicating the order in which you would work.

Please note, I'm doing my 2010 BOM with blanket-stitching & this distortion was not an issue in the 1st 3 blocks I've done. I am still working for the perfect offset, as mentioned in previous posts. It seems to me that I also read somewhere that there is an issue with V6 offset that is supposed to be corrected in an update.

Thank you Thank you Thank you for your advice.
Susan

suehenyon wrote:

Libbi,
are you having any problems with the density of the satin stitch applique? I digitized a large flower with several concentric rings, used a satin stitch cover, which is really pretty, but the background fabric warped (for want of a better word), I suspect because of too many stitches. I've modified the design in the fabric properties to "lightweight woven" but haven't had a chance to try it. I blocked the square & spray starched it, letting it dry on it's own, to see if it flattens the block..

Any ideas?

I'm drawing out each BOM in EQ6, exporting a .wmf to digitize in V6 with a single stitch outline, coloring each object a different color, sequencing by selection, then copying the whole works and adding my blanket stitch cover. I just manually progress through the design to get the various levels of stitching once I'm at my machine.

I found the sequencing getting really messed up when I tried using auto or advanced applique, & there are so many objects that I was getting confused trying to sequence the design properly.

However, those instant applique techniques are really cool for simpler designs!

My apologies to anyone who is not familiar with digitizing. This message will make no sense to you. I'm hoping it does for embroidery software users.

suehenyon wrote: Sue, check my blog for my crazy heart piece. Backyard birds....hmmm! Great idea!

Maggie in snowy E. Central Illinois. Can't even see my backyard!

For those who want to learn more about applique in the hoop, there are several good tutorials. Some refer specifically to Bernina software
http://www.exnovodesign.com/index.html

Secrets of Embroidery has tutorials for many brands and Embird
http://www.secretsof.com/embroiderytutorials.htm

On March 5, 2010 Quilt University will begin Joanne Winn's course on Embroidered Applique designed for all types of machines

Have fun
Libbi

To find the Bernina videos, click the Daily Blog (home page) and look for Bernina videos on the left hand side of the page under product sponsors.

I have tried to find Bernina video 401 and can't find it . Can sanyone tell me how to find it? Thanks, Dixie

Sounds like Latin to me!

Never done any of what you are contemplating, but Good Luck!

Lynn

Oh my goodness! Thanks for sending me to the video! That's so intriguing!!!!!

Hey Maggie,
Have you programmed any backyard birds for your Janome yet? I'd love to see some of your blocks posted.
Sue

Susie Q
There is a Bernina video, number 401 Machine Embroidered Applique, which shows the basic process. You can buy applique designs, just like you buy an embroidery design. What software allows you to do, is design and program the design. I'm still struggling with the easiest way to accomplish this, as the software allows for several options, and I've decided that I really should start keeping a journal of steps, successes and failures because I forget what I've done. Instant is not always best. As Libbi has said, once the design is programmed, the stitch-out is fast, accurate, and lots of fun.

Sue, who maybe could get outside in the snow, but it's too cold and she's afraid of falling.